Hanoi food guide6 places

Nights and night markets

On Friday, Saturday and Sunday evenings the scooters disappear from the Old Quarter

Hanoi's nights depend on the day of the week. From 7pm Friday to midnight Sunday, sixteen streets around Hoàn Kiếm Lake are closed to cars and scooters. A city where crossing the road is normally a small project turns into three days of walkable space. Three of the six places below exist only in that window.

The way people eat is different from Da Nang too. There is no coastline, so grilled-seafood night markets are not the centre of it; the Hanoi night is a low plastic stool, a glass of bia hơi and something to pick at — 10,000 to 15,000₫ a glass, 12 to 19 baht. After that comes broth: a couple of lanes stay open until three or four in the morning, and a late night ends with a bowl of phở.

We have included one daytime market as well. Hanoi's market food is truer at 7 to 9 in the morning than at night — the roast meats, the braises and the day's bánh cuốn all come out then. Pickpockets work the night market, so carry your bag in front, and most stalls take cash only.

In this guideTạ Hiện beer streetWeekend night marketAlleys open till dawnPhở cuốn streetMorning marketLakeside walking street

Food map

Nights and night markets

1Phố Tạ HiệnNights and night markets

A five-metre lane and several hundred plastic stools

Phố Tạ Hiện

Approximate locations — see each card for the exact address

01Nights and night markets

Phố Tạ Hiện

Tạ Hiện Beer Street

A five-metre lane and several hundred plastic stools

In the middle of the Old Quarter, a lane barely five metres wide lined on both sides with beer stalls. It is the densest concentration of bia hơi in Hanoi — beer brewed each morning and drunk the same evening, light at 3–4% and 10,000–15,000₫ a glass. There is a way to sit: knees folded on a low plastic stool, facing the street, with snacks ordered from the shop next door and carried over — nem rán, stir-fried snails, fried tofu, skewers. Stools start coming out around five, and 6:30 to 10:30pm is the peak.

Local favouriteOpen lateCash onlyEnglish menu

What to order

Bia hơiBia hơi (fresh draught beer)10,000–15,000₫ a glass15,000₫≈ ฿19
Nem ránNem rán (fried spring rolls)60,000₫≈ ฿77

Hours: 17:00–24:00
Price: 50,000–200,000₫

Phố Tạ Hiện, Hàng Buồm, Hoàn Kiếm

Before you goAsk the price before you sit — it varies shop to shop and is hard to negotiate once you have a table. The lane is narrow and scooters come through the crowd, so don't stand in the middle, and keep your bag on your lap. Around midnight an inspection may sweep the stools in one go; just stand up when it does. Cash only at most stalls.

#tahienstreet #biahoi #beerstreet #hanoinightlife #oldquarter #plasticstools

Chợ đêm phố cổ (Hàng Đào – Đồng Xuân)3 photos

02Nights and night markets

Chợ đêm phố cổ (Hàng Đào – Đồng Xuân)

Old Quarter Weekend Night Market

Three kilometres in a single line, from the lake to Đồng Xuân market

Friday, Saturday and Sunday evenings only. It starts at Hàng Đào north of Hoàn Kiếm Lake and runs through Hàng Ngang, Hàng Đường and Hàng Giấy to Đồng Xuân market, roughly three kilometres of stalls in one line. Half of it is souvenirs and clothes and the rest is food, but the real eating is in the alleys behind Đồng Xuân market — bún chả grilled on bamboo skewers, bánh tôm, chè, and bánh cuốn made that morning. On Saturday evenings there are traditional chèo, quan họ and ca trù performances along the street.

Local favouriteFamily friendlyCash onlyOpen late

What to order

Bún chả que treBún chả que tre (bamboo-skewer bún chả)50,000₫≈ ฿64
ChèChè (sweet soup)25,000₫≈ ฿32

Hours: Fri–Sun 18:00–23:00
Price: 20,000–150,000₫

Phố Hàng Đào → chợ Đồng Xuân, Hoàn Kiếm

Before you goIt only exists on Friday, Saturday and Sunday evenings — go on a weeknight and it is an ordinary shopping street. It peaks between 7:30 and 10pm, which is also when pickpockets work, so wear your bag in front. The food clusters in the alleys behind Đồng Xuân market rather than on the main street, so walk to the end and turn in. Stalls often don't display prices; ask before you order.

#hanoinightmarket #dongxuanmarket #hangdao #weekendmarket #streetfood #oldquarter

Phố ẩm thực Tống Duy Tân – ngõ Cấm Chỉ3 photos

03Nights and night markets

Phố ẩm thực Tống Duy Tân – ngõ Cấm Chỉ

Tống Duy Tân & Cấm Chỉ Food Alley

Two hundred metres that stay lit until three or four in the morning

The two-hundred-metre stretch Hanoi calls its sleepless food street: Tống Duy Tân and the Cấm Chỉ alley attached to it, treated as one place. It runs until three or four in the morning when everything else has shut, so it fills with people off late shifts, taxi drivers, and anyone who got hungry after a night out. What it sells is not fancy — chicken phở, sticky rice, congee, grilled skewers, bún đậu mắm tôm, and gà tần, chicken stewed with Chinese medicinal herbs. On a winter night, gà tần at 2am is the correct answer here.

Local favouriteOpen lateCash only

What to order

Gà tầnGà tần (herbal stewed chicken)90,000₫≈ ฿115
CháoCháo (rice porridge)40,000₫≈ ฿51

Hours: 17:00–03:00
Price: 40,000–150,000₫

Phố Tống Duy Tân & ngõ Cấm Chỉ, Hàng Bông, Hoàn Kiếm

Before you goPrices here sometimes go up in the small hours rather than down, so check before you sit. Shops keep their own hours, so only about half are open in the early evening. The lane is narrow and the karaoke is loud — if you want a quiet meal, eat elsewhere. Women travelling alone late are better off at a table on the Tống Duy Tân side rather than deep in the alley.

#tongduytan #camchi #latenighthanoi #gatan #24hourfood #hanoiafterdark

04Nights and night markets

Phố ẩm thực Đảo Ngọc – Ngũ Xã

Đảo Ngọc – Ngũ Xã Food Street

A small peninsula in Trúc Bạch Lake, given over entirely to eating

A small peninsula reaching into Trúc Bạch Lake, designated in full as a food street. Seven lanes are grouped around Ngũ Xã and Nguyễn Khắc Hiếu, and traffic is closed off from 7pm to midnight on Friday, Saturday and Sunday. The dish this neighbourhood is known for is phở cuốn: the rice sheet that would have been cut into phở noodles is left whole instead, and stir-fried beef and herbs are rolled inside it and dipped in nước chấm. It was invented in Hanoi, and specifically in these lanes. Its partner, phở chiên phồng, is the same sheet deep-fried until it puffs — crisp outside and hollow within. Thirty to fifty thousand đồng a head covers both.

Local favouriteCan be made without porkFamily friendlyCash only

What to order

Phở cuốnPhở cuốn (beef rolled in rice sheets)30,000–44,000₫ per person40,000₫≈ ฿51
Phở chiên phồngPhở chiên phồng (puffed fried rice sheets)60,000₫≈ ฿77

Hours: 10:00–23:00 · walking street Fri–Sun 19:00–24:00
Price: 30,000–120,000₫

Phố Ngũ Xã & Nguyễn Khắc Hiếu, Trúc Bạch, Ba Đình

Before you goThe road closes 7pm to midnight on Friday, Saturday and Sunday — go then and the tables come out into the middle of the street. Phở cuốn is rolled to order rather than made in advance, so allow five to ten minutes. Several shops on the same lane use similar names; the safest choice is the one with the most customers. The tables facing the lake catch the evening breeze.

#phocuon #nguxa #trucbachlake #hanoifoodstreet #weekendwalking #badinh

05Nights and night markets

Chợ Hàng Bè

Hàng Bè Market

The morning market where Hanoi buys the evening's dishes

Inside the Old Quarter, stalls spread across three lanes — Hàng Bè, Gia Ngư and Cầu Gỗ — in a market of food that is already cooked. Not vegetables and raw meat but finished dishes: whole roast pork and duck, braised ribs, stir-fried shrimp, giò lụa, poached chicken. This is where Hanoi households buy dinner. You can eat it immediately; the vendor chops your portion in front of you and hands it over. Timing matters — 7 to 9 in the morning is when the most is out and the food is hottest. For Thai visitors the scene is familiar while the ingredients and seasonings are not, which makes it a fast way to see a whole Hanoi table at once.

Local favouriteDaytime onlyPork-centred menuCash only

What to order

Thịt quayThịt quay (roast pork)Per 100g, sold by weight60,000₫≈ ฿77
Giò lụaGiò lụa (Vietnamese pork sausage)40,000₫≈ ฿51

Hours: 05:00–20:00
Price: 30,000–150,000₫

Ngõ Hàng Bè – Gia Ngư – Cầu Gỗ, Hoàn Kiếm

Before you goCome between 7 and 9 in the morning — by afternoon only leftovers remain. Most things are sold by weight, so say an amount ("100 grams") and point; showing the number on your phone works. There is almost nowhere to sit, so it is takeaway by default: carry it back to the hotel or to a nearby café. The lanes are tight and scooters keep coming through, so stand against a wall when taking photos.

#hangbemarket #hanoimarket #morningmarket #roastpork #readytoeat #oldquarter

06Nights and night markets

Phố đi bộ hồ Hoàn Kiếm

Hoàn Kiếm Lake Walking Street

From 7pm Friday to midnight Sunday, no cars

Sixteen streets around the lake become a traffic-free zone from 7pm on Friday until midnight on Sunday. Hanoi is normally a city where crossing the road is a task; for those three days you can sit down in the middle of it. Food carts set up along Đinh Tiên Hoàng and Hàng Khay, and the square fills with street performers and children's games — đá cầu shuttlecock kicking, skipping ropes, impromptu singing. The food here is not the point so much as eating while walking: grilled rice paper, snails, candy floss, ice cream. Buying a bowl of chè and sitting on a bench by the water is the standard shape of the evening.

Local favouriteFamily friendlyCash onlyOpen late

What to order

Bánh tráng nướngBánh tráng nướng (grilled rice paper)30,000₫≈ ฿38
Kem Tràng TiềnTràng Tiền ice cream15,000₫≈ ฿19

Hours: Fri 19:00 – Sun 24:00
Price: 15,000–100,000₫

Quanh hồ Hoàn Kiếm (Đinh Tiên Hoàng, Lê Thái Tổ, Hàng Khay…), Hoàn Kiếm

Before you goOn weekdays this is simply a road — go after 7pm on Friday. Grab cars cannot enter the closed zone, so you get out near the lake and walk in, and the same on the way back. Saturday evening is the busiest; families will find most of the children's activity around the square. The carts take cash only.

#hoankiemlake #walkingstreet #hanoiweekend #streetperformance #nightstroll #oldquarter

Illustrative image of the style and atmosphere — not a photo of the venue itself · As of Aug 2026

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